Publications scientifiques

Cette page liste les productions scientifiques ou autres liées notamment à l'observation du niveau de la mer, à l'instrumentation ou aux applications.

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Monitoring individual wave characteristics in the inner surf with a 2-Dimensional laser scanner (LiDAR)

This paper presents an investigation into the use of a 2-dimensional laser scanner (LiDAR) to obtain measurements of wave processes in the inner surf and swash zones of a microtidal beach (Rousty, Camargue, France). The bed is extracted at the wave-by-wave timescale using a variance threshold method on the time series. Individual wave properties were then retrieved from a local extrema analysis. Finally, individual and averaged wave celerities are obtained using a crest-tracking method and cross-correlation technique, respectively, and compared with common wave celerity predictors.
  • Article scientifique

K. Martins, C. E. Blenkinsopp, J. Zang
Journal of Sensors, Sensors for Coastal Monitoring
Measured mean water levels above Chart Datum at Fos-sur-Mer port and offshore significant wave height measured by a buoy close to Sete

Determination of extreme sea levels along the Iberian Atlantic coast

Extreme sea levels along the Atlantic Iberian coast are determined through the development and application of a numerical model for tides and surges, followed by a statistical analysis of the model results. A recent statistical method is assessed using 131 years of data from the Brest tide gauge, and the number of years of data required for an accurate statistical analysis is estimated. The statistical method is extended to consider tide–surge interactions, but they are shown to be small in the study region.
  • Article scientifique

A. B. Fortunato, K. Li, X. Bertin, M. Rodrigues, B. Martín Míguez
Ocean Engineering, volume 111
Ocean Engineering

Wave spectra partitioning and long term statistical distribution

A new method is presented for a physically based statistical description of wind wave climatology. The method applies spectral partitioning to identify individual wave systems (partitions) in time series of 2D-wave spectra, followed by computing the probability of occurrence of their (peak) position in frequency–direction space. This distribution can be considered as a spectral density function to which another round of partitioning is applied to obtain spectral domains, each representing a typical wave system or population in a statistical sense.
  • Article scientifique

J. Portilla-Yandún, L. Cavaleric, G. Ph. Van Vledder
Ocean Modelling, volume 96
(a) Wave systems (populations) at K13 according to the probability density distribution of spectral partitions, peaks marked in magenta. (b) Projection of (a) in direction only. (c) travel paths of each population.

Coastal flooding of urban areas by overtopping: dynamic modelling application to the Johanna storm (2008) in Gâvres (France)

Recent dramatic events have allowed significant progress to be achieved in coastal flood modelling over recent years. Classical approaches generally estimate wave overtopping by means of empirical formulas or 1-D simulations, and the flood is simulated on a DTM (digital terrain model), using soil roughness to characterize land use. The limits of these methods are typically linked to the accuracy of overtopping estimation (spatial and temporal distribution) and to the reliability of the results in urban areas, which are places where the assets are the most crucial.
  • Article scientifique

S. Le Roy, R. Pedreros, C. André, F. Paris, S. Lecacheux, F. Marche, C. Vinchon
NHESS, volume 15
 Validation of the total sea level (tide and storm surge) and of the storm surge simulated with MARS in Port-Tudy (observation from http://refmar.shom.fr).

Sea level monitoring and sea state estimate using a single geodetic receiver

GNSS-Reflectometry (GNSS-R) altimetry has demonstrated a strong potential for sea level monitoring. Interference Pattern Technique (IPT) based on the analysis of the Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) estimated by a GNSS receiver, presents the main advantage of being applicable everywhere by using a single geodetic antenna and receiver, transforming them to real tide gauges. Classical SNR analysis method used to estimate the variations of the reflecting surface height h(t) has a limited domain of validity due to its variation rate (dh/dt)(t) assumed to be negligible.
  • Article scientifique

N. Roussel, G. Ramillien, F. Frappart, J. Darrozes, A. Gay, R. Biancale, N. Striebig, V. Hanquiez, X. Bertin, D. Allain
Remote Sensing of Environment, volume 171
 Principle of GNSS tide gauge using a single GNSS antenna. ε : satellite elevation angle, δ: additional path covered by the reflected way (green line).

Estimation des niveaux marins extrêmes avec et sans l’action des vagues le long du littoral métropolitain

Pour caractériser le risque de submersion marine, il est très important d'avoir une connaissance précise des lois de distribution des niveaux d'eau marins, et plus particulièrement des niveaux d'eau extrêmes. En effet ce sont eux qui sont à l'origine des conséquences les plus dramatiques. Le programme de recherche mené au cours de cette thèse a été financé par le Ministère de l'Écologie, du Développement Durable et de l'Énergie.
  • Article scientifique

X. Kergadallan
Laboratoire d'Hydraulique Saint-Venant - Université Paris-Est
Mer du Nord, Manche et Atlantique : Niveaux d’eau moyens annuels recalés par rapport au port de Brest

Rapport technique final du projet NIVEXT - NIVeaux EXTrêmes

Ce rapport rend compte du travail effectué dans le cadre du projet NIVEXT financé par la DGPR. Le SHOM disposant de mesures marégraphiques sur les côtes françaises depuis 1850, en base de données numériques ou en dormance sous forme papier dans les archives, la possibilité d’établir un bilan de ce que ces données peuvent apporter à la connaissance des niveaux extrêmes est apparue une action nécessaire et cohérente avec la ligne portée par l’Etat.
  • Rapport d'étude

C. Daubord
Shom
Exemple de marégramme ancien : marégramme de Rochefort couvrant la période du 1 au 31 janvier 1890, récupéré pour l’analyse de l’évènement T16 (21 janvier 1890)

How historical information can improve estimation and prediction of extreme coastal water levels: application to the Xynthia event at La Rochelle (France)

The knowledge of extreme coastal water levels is useful for coastal flooding studies or the design of coastal defences. While deriving such extremes with standard analyses using tide-gauge measurements, one often needs to deal with limited effective duration of observation which can result in large statistical uncertainties. This is even truer when one faces the issue of outliers, those particularly extreme values distant from the others which increase the uncertainty on the results.
  • Article scientifique

T. Bulteau, D. Idier, J. Lambert, M. Garcin
NHESS, volume 15
Study site and water level data localisation

Tidal notches in Mediterranean Sea: a comprehensive analysis

Recent works (Evelpidou et al., 2012) suggest that the modern tidal notch is disappearing worldwide due sea level rise over the last century. In order to assess this hypothesis, we measured modern tidal notches in several of sites along the Mediterranean coasts. We report observations on tidal notches cut along carbonate coasts from 73 sites from Italy, France, Croatia, Montenegro, Greece, Malta and Spain, plus additional observations carried outside the Mediterranean.
  • Article scientifique

F. Antonioli, V. Lo Presti, A. Rovere, L. Ferranti, M. Anzidei, S. Furlani, G. Mastronuzzi, P. E. Orru, G. Scicchitano, G. Sannino, C. R. Spampinato, R. Pagliarulo, G. Deiana, E. de Sabata, P. Sansò, M. Vacchi, A. Vecchio
Quaternary Science Reviews, volume 119
Morphometric measures: A) Average notch width, B) Notch depth, C) Bottom depth (reef when present), D) reef and step (if present) thickness, E) Depth of cliff toe at mean sea level.