Publications scientifiques

Cette page liste les productions scientifiques ou autres liées notamment à l'observation du niveau de la mer, à l'instrumentation ou aux applications.

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Technical note: On seasonal variability of the M₂ tide

Seasonal variability of the M₂ ocean tide can be detected at many ports, perhaps most. Examination of the cluster of tidal constituents residing within the M₂ tidal group can shed light on the physical mechanisms underlying seasonality. In the broadest terms these are astronomical, frictional–advective interactions, and climate processes; some induce annual modulations and some semiannual, in amplitude, phase, or both. This note reviews how this occurs and gives an example from each broad category.
  • Recommandation

R. D. Ray
Ocean Science, volume 18
Spectrum of sea level at Saint-Malo, on the northern coast of France, focusing on the M2 group but with the central M2 constituent estimated and removed to better delineate the much smaller sidelines. The spectrum is based on 16 years of data. After spectral smoothing, the frequency resolution is approximately 0.2 cpy (or 0.0005 cpd), insufficient to clearly separate MSK2 from Γ2. The seasonal modulation of M2 at Saint-Malo is evidently dominated by the two frictional compound tides, although α2 is also imp

Hourly sea level height forecast based on GNSS-IR by using ARIMA model

Multi-satellite and Multi-Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) types provide more basic data for the monitoring of sea level height by Global Navigation Satellite System Interferometric Reflectometry (GNSS-IR) technology. Few studies predict sea level height with high temporal resolution. This study proposes a theory based on GNSS-IR technology and Auto Regressive Integrated Moving Average (ARIMA) model. Taking the MAYG station as an example, the process of sea level height prediction and the determination of the best prediction scheme are shown.
  • Article scientifique

N. Zheng, H. Chai, Y. Ma, L. Chen, P. Chen
International Journal of Remote Sensing, volume 43
Diagram of the compensation hourly average sea level height retrieved by GNSS-IR  technology and sea level height predicted 24 h by 1 tide cycle with the measured height of the  tide gauge and its correlation analysis chart (The red scatter in (a) is the mean sea level height  obtained after preprocessing, the cyan scatter is the result obtained by interpolation, and the  purple scatter in (b) is the results predicted by 1 tide level period for 24 h. The color bar  represents the density of points. Moreover

Water Level Modulation of Wave Transformation, Setup and Runup Over La Saline Fringing Reef

Coral reefs represent an efficient natural mechanical coastal defense against ocean waves. The focus of this study is La Saline fringing coral reef, located in the microtidal West of La Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean, frequently exposed to Southern Ocean swell and cyclonic events. The aim is to provide a better understanding of the reef's coastal defense characteristics for several Southern Ocean swell events. Pressure sensors were placed across the reef to measure water level fluctuations and to study wave transformation.
  • Article scientifique

W. Bruch, E. Cordier, F. Floc'h, S. G. Pearson
JGR Oceans, volume 127
Wave energy spectrum: Temporal evolution at the reef slope (RS) station (a) and at the reef flat (RF) station (c), Total mean wave spectrum over the 53-day of experiment at RS station (b) and at the RF station (d). The black lines represent the frequency bands boundaries (0.04 Hz for IG/GW bands and 0.004 Hz for VLF/IG bands) Periods P1, P2 and P3, corresponding to the wave events of interest, are highlighted by the purple boxes.

Determination of weather-induced short-term sea level variations by GNSS reflectometry

We propose to derive local sea level variations by using the Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) of the GNSS reflected signals at four GNSS single antenna sites (ILDG, TAR0, FFT2, LYTT) located at different latitudes. For these sites representing various ocean conditions (waves, tides, storm surges, etc…), tides estimates by SNR are highly consistent to tide gauges records as highlighted by tidal harmonic analysis, with a Root-Sum-Square (RSS) ranging from few centimeter in micro-tidal environment to near a decimeter in macro-tidal environment.
  • Article scientifique

T. Gravalon, L. Seoane, G. Ramillien, J. Darrozes, L. Roblou
Remote Sensing of Environment, volume 279
Couverture - Remote Sensing of Environment

A locally relevant framework for assessing the risk of sea level rise under changing temperature conditions: Application in New Caledonia, Pacific Ocean

Sea level rise is a key feature in a warmer world and its impact can be seen globally. Assessing climate change-induced sea level rise, therefore, is urgently needed particularly in small island nations, where the threats of sea level rise are immediate, but the level of preparedness is low. Here, we propose a stochastic simulator to link changes in Mean Annual Temperature (MAT) to Mean Annual Sea Level (MASEL) at the local scale. This is through what-if scenarios that are developed based on the association between local temperature and sea level.
  • Article scientifique

M. Kaemo, E. Hassanzadeh, A. Nazemi
Science of The Total Environment, volume 834
Graphical abstract

Spatio-temporal variability of the morpho-sedimentary dynamics observed on two gravel beaches in response to hydrodynamic forcing

This article aims to investigate the 3D morpho-sedimentary dynamics of two gravel beaches in relation to hydrodynamic forcing, using a multi-sensor approach. Study sites, namely Etretat and Hautot-sur-Mer, are both located in Normandy, France. Thus, they face similar wave conditions of the English channel's eastern side, with megatidal ranges and channelized wave orientations.
  • Article scientifique

A. Saloy, I. Turki, N. Lecoq, C. L. Solano, B. Laignel
Marine Geology, volume 447
Marine Geology

A long-term dataset of topography and nearshore bathymetry at the macrotidal pocket beach of Porsmilin, France

Long-term datasets documenting the evolution of coastal forms and processes, through the provision of recurring beach as well as shoreface morphological observations and accompanying time-series of environmental controls, remain difficult to collect and are rarely made available. However, they are increasingly needed to further our understanding of coastal change and to improve the models that will help planning what our future coast will be.
  • Article scientifique

S. Bertin, F. Floc'h, N. Le Dantec, M. Jaud, R. Cancouët, M. Franzetti, V. Cuq, C. Prunier, J. Ammann, E. Augereau, S. Lamarche, D. Belleney, M. Rouan, L. David, A. Deschamps, C. Delacourt, S. Suanez
Scientific Data 9, article 79
Survey site. (a) Map of western France. (b) DEM of northwest Brittany coastline (source: MNT  Bathymétrique de façade Atlantique67 (Projet Homonim) - Shom) showing the location of Pierres Noires  CANDHIS wave buoy (node 47039) and Le Conquet tidal gauge (green square and triangle, respectively)

Drivers of tidal characteristic changes in north western France: a statistical analysis

Tides are changing on human timescales, and an understanding of reasons for these changes is important for inundation risk assessments and coastal defence planning. Tides are often regarded as astronomically generated phenomena, however recently published literature has investigated changes in tidal characteristics driven by non-astronomical factors.
  • Article scientifique

J. Challis, D. Idier, G. Wöppelmann, G. André, R. Legouge, J. Rohmer
Paralia - XVIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Chatou
(a) absolute M2 amplitude change at Brest since 1846; (b) Range of ܶܵܥ∆ ௔௠௣ (where * represents statistically significant (p>0.05) models that also positive R2 values).

Seasonal runup variability at a reef-lined beach: field assessments in the Caribbean

The proposed article deals with the assessment of coral reef impact on runup-induced coastal flooding over a two years and 10 months period at Anse Maurice, a reef-fringed pocket beach located at Guadeloupe Island, in the Caribbean region. The reef is mainly constituted by complex structures of Acropora Palmata dead colonies. Daily maximum marine inundation was assessed using a fixed video system. Daily Highest Runups (DHR) remains primarily correlated to individual storm event as extreme runups are observed in correlation with storm swells.
  • Article scientifique

T. Laigre, Y. Balouin, A. Nicolae-Lerma, N. Valentini, D. Villarroel-Lamb, M. Moisan, Y. De la Torre
Paralia - XVIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Chatou
Incident wave and sea-level conditions and Camera derided observations  from April 2019 to May 2021. (a) Offshore wave conditions on MARC model. (B) Sealevel variations on Pointe-à-Pitre tide gauge, 14 days moving mean is represented in  red. (c) daily times tacks with detection of maximum swash limit (black line). (d)  Evolution of the DHR on the profile