Publications scientifiques

Cette page liste les productions scientifiques ou autres liées notamment à l'observation du niveau de la mer, à l'instrumentation ou aux applications.

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A long-term dataset of topography and nearshore bathymetry at the macrotidal pocket beach of Porsmilin, France

Long-term datasets documenting the evolution of coastal forms and processes, through the provision of recurring beach as well as shoreface morphological observations and accompanying time-series of environmental controls, remain difficult to collect and are rarely made available. However, they are increasingly needed to further our understanding of coastal change and to improve the models that will help planning what our future coast will be.
  • Article scientifique

S. Bertin, F. Floc'h, N. Le Dantec, M. Jaud, R. Cancouët, M. Franzetti, V. Cuq, C. Prunier, J. Ammann, E. Augereau, S. Lamarche, D. Belleney, M. Rouan, L. David, A. Deschamps, C. Delacourt, S. Suanez
Scientific Data 9, article 79
Survey site. (a) Map of western France. (b) DEM of northwest Brittany coastline (source: MNT  Bathymétrique de façade Atlantique67 (Projet Homonim) - Shom) showing the location of Pierres Noires  CANDHIS wave buoy (node 47039) and Le Conquet tidal gauge (green square and triangle, respectively)

Seasonal runup variability at a reef-lined beach: field assessments in the Caribbean

The proposed article deals with the assessment of coral reef impact on runup-induced coastal flooding over a two years and 10 months period at Anse Maurice, a reef-fringed pocket beach located at Guadeloupe Island, in the Caribbean region. The reef is mainly constituted by complex structures of Acropora Palmata dead colonies. Daily maximum marine inundation was assessed using a fixed video system. Daily Highest Runups (DHR) remains primarily correlated to individual storm event as extreme runups are observed in correlation with storm swells.
  • Article scientifique

T. Laigre, Y. Balouin, A. Nicolae-Lerma, N. Valentini, D. Villarroel-Lamb, M. Moisan, Y. De la Torre
Paralia - XVIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Chatou
Incident wave and sea-level conditions and Camera derided observations  from April 2019 to May 2021. (a) Offshore wave conditions on MARC model. (B) Sealevel variations on Pointe-à-Pitre tide gauge, 14 days moving mean is represented in  red. (c) daily times tacks with detection of maximum swash limit (black line). (d)  Evolution of the DHR on the profile

Drivers of tidal characteristic changes in north western France: a statistical analysis

Tides are changing on human timescales, and an understanding of reasons for these changes is important for inundation risk assessments and coastal defence planning. Tides are often regarded as astronomically generated phenomena, however recently published literature has investigated changes in tidal characteristics driven by non-astronomical factors.
  • Article scientifique

J. Challis, D. Idier, G. Wöppelmann, G. André, R. Legouge, J. Rohmer
Paralia - XVIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Chatou
(a) absolute M2 amplitude change at Brest since 1846; (b) Range of ܶܵܥ∆ ௔௠௣ (where * represents statistically significant (p>0.05) models that also positive R2 values).

Ecoregional and temporal dynamics of dugong habitat use in a complex coral reef lagoon ecosystem

Mobile marine species display complex and nonstationary habitat use patterns that require understanding to design effective management measures. In this study, the spatio-temporal habitat use dynamics of the vulnerable dugong (Dugong dugon) were modelled from 16 satellite-tagged individuals in the coral reef lagoonal ecosystems of New Caledonia, South Pacific.
  • Article scientifique

S. Derville, C. Cleguer, C. Garrigue
Scientific Reports 12, article 552
Figure 1  Interpolated dugong GPS tracks recorded in 2012, 2013 and 2019 over the west coast of New Caledonia, South Pacific. The 16 tracks are split in different colors depending on the ecoregion they are in. Ecoregions identified through hierarchical clustering of environmental lagoon characteristics are represented with colored polygons. Ecoregion 3 is divided into two separate parts, one to the north of ecoregion 2 and another in between ecoregion 1 and 2. Land is shown in black and shallow reefs are sh

The Mw 7.5 Tadine (Maré, Loyalty Islands) earthquake and related tsunami of 5 December 2018: seismotectonic context and numerical modeling

On 5 December 2018, a magnitude Mw  7.5 earthquake occurred southeast of Maré, an island of the Loyalty Islands archipelago, New Caledonia. This earthquake is located at the junction between the plunging Loyalty Ridge and the southern part of the Vanuatu Arc, in a tectonically complex and very active area regularly subjected to strong seismic crises and earthquakes higher than magnitude 7 and up to 8.
  • Article scientifique

J. Roger, B. Pelletier, M. Duphil, J. Lefèvre, J. Aucan, P. Lebellegard, B. Thomas, C. Bachelier, D. Varillon
NHESS, volume 21
New Caledonia and the south Vanuatu subduction zone. The colored dots represent the seismicity from the USGS database for the period from 1 January 1900 to 24 January 2019, with the size of dots being proportional to the event's magnitude. Tsunamigenic earthquakes recorded in New Caledonia (Roger et al., 2019b; US Geological Survey, 2019) are highlighted with black-outlined circles and linked to dates. The black line symbolizes the Vanuatu Trench. The white arrows symbolize the subduction directions and rat

Wave overtopping and overflow hazards: application on the Camargue sea-dike

Dike breaches occurs regularly during storm events. This phenomenon contributes to amplify considerably the impact of floods on coastal areas. It represents an important cost for repairing existing infrastructures in the vicinity of the sea-dike. Then, they must be upgraded to prevent breaches. In the present study, ANEMOC and REFMAR dataset were analysed, off Camargue coasts, to quantify the storm hazards in terms of wave height and sea level wind setup. Repartition laws were adjusted on dataset to build a 2D-copula which is used to estimate events return periods.
  • Article scientifique

T. Paul, C. Lutringer, A. Poupardin, A. Bennabi, J. Jeaong, P. Sergent
Conf. TUC 2020, BE, Antwerp
Gumbel copula built from ANEMOC and REFMAR dataset and by fitting events with a Generalized Extreme Value Distribution (GEV)

Predicting Storm Surges

In this chapter, we present a second example of statistical estimation of extreme quantiles: millennial quantiles for storm surges at Brest (France), based on hourly sea-level measurements. We run sensitivity tests on parameter values, on the choice of analytic models for distributions, and on the statistical estimation methods chosen. Uncertainty in estimates and associated confidence intervals are also calculated and compared.
  • Article scientifique

M. Andreewsky
Extreme Value Theory with Applications to Natural Hazards, pp345-359, Springer, Cham
Extreme Value Theory with Applications to Natural Hazards From Statistical Theory to Industrial Practice

Improving storm surge and wave forecasts from regional to nearshore scales

Submersion risks assessment requires different tools and methods from regional to coastal scales. The Shom’s strategy relies on numerical modelling and observational systems applied in a challenging multi-scale context. At regional scales, storm surge and wave models Hycom and Wavewatch III, bathymetric digital terrain models (DTMs) and observational tide/buoy networks used within the operational national storm surge service (Homonim project with Météo-France) are presented, as well as their applications in climatological 40-year hindasts.
  • Article scientifique

A. Pasquet, H. Michaud, L. Seyfried, R. Baraille, L. Biscara, Y. Krien, D. Jourdan
9ᵗʰ EuroGOOS Conference, Virtual Edition
. 100- year return levels for Skew Surge observations (left), 100- year return levels for Hs observations (center) and 100- year return level  errors for Skew Surge and Hs (right).

Advances in estimating Sea Level Rise: A review of tide gauge, satellite altimetry and spatial data science approaches

Significant developments have been made in the observation systems and techniques of estimating sea level towards meeting the standard accuracy requirement of Global Climate Observation Systems (GCOS). This study undertakes a systematic review of the current advances in estimating sea level change in the context of the 4th industrial revolution. Trends in the use of main observation systems such as tide gauges, satellite altimetry, and ancillary systems such as GNSS and Autonomous Surface Vehicles were explored.
  • Article scientifique

N. Adebisi, A.-L. Balogun, T. Hee Min, A. Tella
Ocean & Coastal Management, volume 208
Graphical abstract